June 20th, 2025 - last day of travel

After break­fast, we packed every­thing up, emp­tied the camp­ing toi­let cas­sette one last time, and set off on a final tour along the coast until we had to return the camper. Here we first dis­cov­ered anoth­er pret­ty church, Hval­sne­skirk­ja:

We con­tin­ued along the coast. Since we still had a few hours to spare, we vis­it­ed all the sights that Google Maps showed us in the area. Here we see anoth­er orange light­house, Stafnesvi­ti. The strik­ing col­or some­how makes sense.

The next spot, Gal­gar, is said to be steeped in his­to­ry. It has some­thing to do with the first set­tlers, Odin, and Val­hal­la. We did­n’t quite under­stand it. The area was desert­ed, with bright blue lupines every­where - but some­how the spot had some­thing spe­cial about it:

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A lit­tle fur­ther on, we came to the Bridge Between Con­ti­nents. This is where the Eurasian and North Amer­i­can plates are drift­ing apart. The bridge con­nects the two - and will prob­a­bly have to be extend­ed fur­ther and fur­ther in the future 😉

As it is locat­ed close to Reyk­javik, many day tourists gath­ered here again. When a large bus final­ly arrived and the place filled up with crowds of tourists, we drove on. We then con­tin­ued east towards Grin­davik.

First, we made a detour to the high-tem­per­a­ture area of Gun­nuhver. Even from a dis­tance, you could see the clouds of steam.

Gun­nuhver is an active geot­her­mal field at the west­ern end of the Reyk­janes Penin­su­la. Tem­per­a­tures of over 300 °C pre­vail beneath the springs. Mud pools and fumaroles are vis­i­ble, fed by rain­wa­ter, while heat­ed sea­wa­ter col­lects in fis­sures and caves deep below. Increased activ­i­ty has been observed since 2006, includ­ing new mud pools, minor erup­tions, and explo­sions. In 2008, a new crater formed, the devel­op­ment of which can still be monitored.

The geot­her­mal ener­gy is used in the near­by Suðurnes pow­er plant. Ini­tial­ly, a 0.5 MW tur­bine was used to gen­er­ate elec­tric­i­ty for local indus­tri­al needs. A new pow­er plant with two 50 MW steam tur­bines has since been built, which went online in May and July 2006, respec­tive­ly. This results in a total out­put of 100 MW.

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We then drove to one last light­house in the imme­di­ate vicin­i­ty, the Reyk­janes Lighthouse.

After­wards, we con­tin­ued our jour­ney towards Grin­davik. On the way, the vol­canic activ­i­ty was still very evi­dent. Some sec­tions of the road had been com­plete­ly repaved, as they had been par­tial­ly cov­ered by lava in 2023. Next to the road, there were miles of bare, black, cooled lava rock. There was hard­ly any vegetation.

Sev­er­al large con­struc­tion machines stood in front of Grin­davik, pil­ing up a huge wall of rocks in front of the town to pro­tect it from new lava erup­tions. Grin­davik made inter­na­tion­al head­lines in 2023 when a vol­canic erup­tion forced the town to be evacuated.

Grin­davík -sounds peace­ful, almost poet­ic. But in this small port town, idyll and ele­men­tal forces lie close togeth­er. Locat­ed about 50 kilo­me­ters south­west of Reyk­javík, Grin­davík has lived off fish­ing for cen­turies. A busy port, a few thou­sand inhab­i­tants, a tra­di­tion of sea­far­ing – that’s how life here looked for a long time.

Since the end of 2023, how­ev­er, the pic­ture has changed dra­mat­i­cal­ly. The town was repeat­ed­ly shak­en by earth­quakes, cracks opened up in the ground, and final­ly lava erupt­ed just a few kilo­me­ters away. On Novem­ber 11, 2023, Grin­davík was evac­u­at­ed in the mid­dle of the night – in just three and a half hours, all the inhab­i­tants left their homes.

In Jan­u­ary 2024, the lava final­ly flowed to the out­skirts of the town and destroyed sev­er­al res­i­den­tial build­ings. Pro­tec­tive bar­ri­ers pre­vent­ed the worst, but not every­thing. Since then, access to the town has been restrict­ed and its future remains uncertain.

in Grin­davik

Above you can see anoth­er pic­ture of the lit­tle church in Grin­davik. Then it was time to return our camper. So we drove back to Keflavik and filled up the fuel tank one last time. Return­ing the camper to Europ­car went smooth­ly, and we were then tak­en from there to the Auro­ra Air­port Hotel, locat­ed right at the air­port. We will spend the night here, but it will be a short one, as we have to be at the air­port short­ly after 5:00 a.m. Our flight to Frank­furt departs at 7:20 a.m.

The Air­port Hotel lived up to its name, locat­ed with­in walk­ing dis­tance of the air­port, about 200 meters away. We had our last din­ner in Ice­land at the hotel. It was only the sec­ond time we had eat­en out­side our camper dur­ing this trip.