June 12th, 2025 - Ice Lagoon

The rain had stopped in the morn­ing, but it was very fog­gy. Short­ly after 8:00 a.m., we start­ed our tour, first head­ing to Múlagljú­fur Canyon.

The Múlagljú­fur Canyon is locat­ed not far from the ring road, between the small town of Hof and the Fjall­sár­lón glac­i­er lagoon. About 3.4 kilo­me­ters west of the road to Fjall­sár­lón, a grav­el road leads towards the canyon. As there are no signs, this place remains undis­cov­ered by most tourists and is much qui­eter than the well-known attrac­tions of the Gold­en Circle.

After about two kilo­me­ters, the road ends at a small park­ing lot where, as usu­al, we had to pay a fee of 1,000 ISK. From there, a path winds its way up through the fog to the top of the canyon. Once we reached the top, the fog grad­u­al­ly began to lift, and a breath­tak­ing view opened up before us, which we enjoyed with amaze­ment as the vis­i­bil­i­ty became clear­er and clear­er. This place is a real insid­er tip!

On the way back, the fog had com­plete­ly cleared, allow­ing us to see far into the low­lands and the Fjall­sár­lón glac­i­er lagoon.

The hike with a break at the top took a good two hours, after which we drove on to Dia­mond Beach. There, chunks of ice bro­ken off the glac­i­er tongue lie like dia­monds on the black beach. Dia­mond Beach is one of Ice­land’s most famous attrac­tions. In con­trast to the lit­tle-known canyon, it was very busy there, and it was some­times dif­fi­cult to take pic­tures with­out any people.

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Nev­er­the­less, there were still many very pho­to­genic motifs:

We then crossed a bridge to reach the next park­ing lot at the Jökul­sár­lón ice lagoon. Unfor­tu­nate­ly, the weath­er had wors­ened again, with an icy wind blow­ing and light rain falling. We there­fore decid­ed not to take a boat trip to see the ice­bergs drift­ing in the lagoon.

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Our next des­ti­na­tion was the town of Höfn. There is a restau­rant named Pakkhus which was high­ly rec­om­mend­ed by our friends Andrea and Har­ry for its excel­lent lob­ster menus.

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First, how­ev­er, we replen­ished our sup­plies at the local Net­to gro­cery store and parked the motorhome at the camp­ground. You can’t reserve a table at Pakkhus. So we went there direct­ly. Since all the tables were occu­pied, we were giv­en a pager and took a seat in the bar area, where we enjoyed a glass of wine and a beer. After a rel­a­tive­ly short wait, the pager went off and we were assigned a nice win­dow table with a view of the small harbor.

Fol­low­ing our friends’ rec­om­men­da­tion, we ordered the lob­ster twice (we got three lob­ster tails each!). As a starter, my wife chose a lan­gous­tine soup and I ordered a crab salad.

It tast­ed won­der­ful. The food was­n’t cheap (we paid around €165 in total, includ­ing drinks), but it was absolute­ly worth it. After­wards, we were stuffed and took a leisure­ly stroll back to the camp­site. It was­n’t cold at all, so we did­n’t need caps or gloves. We spent a qui­et evening in the camper. Tomor­row will be exhaust­ing, as we planned to dri­ve a long way, first to Hengi­foss and then to Bor­gar­f­jarðarhöfn on the east coast. There are sup­posed to be lots of puffins in Bor­gar­f­jarðarhöfn again.