March 26th, 2024 - Onward journey to Dota

After an almost 5-hour dri­ve - part­ly along wind­ing, nar­row moun­tain roads, part­ly through the cap­i­tal San José - we arrived at our next loca­tion, the Tou­canet Lodge in Dota.

Dota is a high-alti­tude, sparse­ly pop­u­lat­ed region south­west of San José. It is locat­ed at an aver­age alti­tude of 1874m and had a pop­u­la­tion of just under 7,000 in 2011 in an area of around 400 km². Our lodge is locat­ed at an alti­tude of 1944m, which we imme­di­ate­ly noticed when unload­ing our lug­gage, as we were quick­ly out of breath.

The lodge was much more ‘rur­al’, our casita #5 had the charme of a hunt­ing hut.

The main des­ti­na­tion was the “Vueltas Hill Bio­log­i­cal Reserve” nation­al park, a rain­for­est area where the col­or­ful quet­zal can be seen again.

After unload­ing our lug­gage and set­ting up in our casita, we met in the lodge’s restau­rant for a drink and then dinner.

Copey,Costa Rica
Tou­canet Lodge, Dota

We made an appoint­ment with a local guide there for the fol­low­ing morn­ing. He will pick us up tomor­row at around 5:30 am. This trip real­ly isn’t for late ris­ers - but we’re already used to that from our African safaris.

March 27th, 2024

This morn­ing our alarm clock rang again at 5:00 am. At 5:30 we had an appoint­ment with Ela­dio, an expe­ri­enced local guide, who picked us up on time with his car. He stopped just a few hun­dred meters from our lodge and showed us a nest­ing hole in a tree, to which the first quet­zal actu­al­ly flew a lit­tle lat­er. Unfor­tu­nate­ly, it was still too dark to take any good pho­tos. Dur­ing the 3-hour tour, how­ev­er, we spot­ted sev­er­al more of these beau­ti­ful birds and man­aged to take some pre­sentable pho­tos. Here are two of them:

We then tried to find quet­zals on our own. The nation­al park “Los Quet­za­les”, about 50 km away, sound­ed promis­ing, but it was prob­a­bly only called that because it had to be called some­thing and there are quet­zals in the area.

There were 2 trails there, which we walked almost all the way along. How­ev­er, we did­n’t see the epony­mous ani­mal and hard­ly any­thing else, apart from a lot of jun­gle. With­out an expe­ri­enced guide, you don’t real­ly have any chance.

How­ev­er, the trip there and back was very inter­est­ing in itself, as it took us a long way along the Car­retera inter­amer­i­cana, a sec­tion of the famous Panamericana.

The Panamer­i­cana, prob­a­bly one of the most famous roads in the world, runs from Alas­ka in the north to the south­ern­most tip of the Amer­i­can con­ti­nent in Tier­ra del Fuego. The total length of the Panamer­i­cana is around 25,000 kilo­me­ters, pass­ing through 14 countries.

The Car­retera inter­amer­i­cana is the Mex­i­can and Cen­tral Amer­i­can sec­tion of the Panamer­i­ca. It stretch­es over 5,470 km between Nue­vo Lare­do in Mex­i­co and the city of Yav­iza in Pana­ma. Con­struc­tion of the road began in the 1930s. The first sec­tion, which was com­plet­ed in 1936, was 1,205 km long and con­nect­ed Nue­vo Lare­do with Mex­i­co City. The sec­ond sec­tion, which end­ed in Pana­ma, was inau­gu­rat­ed in April of the same year. The high­point, in the truest sense of the word, of this spec­tac­u­lar route with alti­tudes of well over 3,000 m and mag­nif­i­cent views is here in Cos­ta Rica.

The Car­retera inter­amer­i­cana reach­es its high­est point at the Cer­ro de la Muerte pass. The road runs at an alti­tude of more than 3,300 meters, sig­nif­i­cant­ly high­er than the high­est moun­tain of Ger­many, the Zugspitze. Nev­er­the­less, there was still plen­ty of green veg­e­ta­tion and trees at this alti­tude. The Cer­ro de la Muerte (“Hill of Death”) is 3491 meters high.

The moun­tain’s creepy name refers to the dif­fi­cul­ties of cross­ing the pass in the past. The moun­tain could only be crossed from the Valle Cen­tral in a three to four-day hike on foot or on horse­back. Many poor­ly pre­pared trav­el­ers suc­cumbed to the unac­cus­tomed cold.

As the Cer­ro de la muerte was only a few kilo­me­ters from the Quet­za­les Park, we did­n’t want to miss out on this real “high­light” and drove there. Unfor­tu­nate­ly, the weath­er and there­fore the vis­i­bil­i­ty was not very good.

Back at our lodge, we sat down on the ter­race and pho­tographed more hum­ming­birds busi­ly suck­ing nec­tar from the sur­round­ing flowers:

After anoth­er excel­lent din­ner in the lodge restau­rant, we booked anoth­er guide for the next day.

March 28th, 2024

Today we set off again ear­ly in the morn­ing with a new guide, Oskar, to look for quet­zals. Fun­ni­ly enough, he led us back to the same nest­ing hole we had been to yesterday.

Unfor­tu­nate­ly the tour was not so pro­duc­tive this time, in the end I only took a sin­gle pic­ture of the male in the back­light dur­ing the 2 1/2 hour obser­va­tion, which turned out quite nice after exten­sive post-processing:

Copey,Costa Rica

I love the high dynam­ic range of my Canon EOS R5. With ana­log film, a shot like this would nev­er have been possible.

We spent the after­noon more inten­sive­ly with the hum­ming­birds in the lodge gar­den, here are some of the results:

After anoth­er deli­cious din­ner in the lodge’s restau­rant, we pre­pared for our onward jour­ney tomorrow.